Tuesday, 23 April 2013
Sunday, 21 April 2013
Greenwich.
Finally made it! Beautiful Spring day with sun, picnic and waaaay too many laughs. My stomach still hurts...
A perfect Sunday. :)
Congrats to all the marathon runners! I cannot say I envied you. It looked like torture.
A perfect Sunday. :)
Congrats to all the marathon runners! I cannot say I envied you. It looked like torture.
Sunday, 14 April 2013
Woah, Turkey!!
After rising early only to miss the ferry to Turkey, we spent the day relaxing on one of Kos' many beautiful beaches and lunching in family restaurants where the food is cooked from scratch.
A much needed couple of rest hours and we were traipsing back to the port with our heavy bags, sweating under the hot afternoon sun.
Finally on a boat to Turkey! Crazy that its only a short 30 minute ferry away. So cool to enter a country by boat, and see the patriotic flags swinging in the wind from afar. The land swelled as we made our way down the coastline, the many resorts covering the hills.
We passed passport control and went in search of a hotel, a routine we've become pretty accustomed to doing and which has so far worked pretty well! Sure enough, only 10 minutes or so walking the streets looking for somewhere and we were approached by a smiley man whose hotel offer we decided to take.
Just off the main street, we found a nice room with a terrace that looks out over the whole esplanade, castle and ocean. For 20 lira a night, or 10 euro, it will definitely do.
We set out exploring, walking around the lovely streets and soaking up the awesome coastal vibe that the town has. We grabbed an incredible meal at a local restaurant, siting on the third story where we could eat our meal while watching the sun set. The table next to ours was having a rowdy birthday celebration and we somehow ended up scoring a piece of the cake! It was divine. Chocolate cake with pistachios!
We declined the offer to join for continued birthday celebrations in a club and went for another walk where we found a little bazaar and loaded up on fruit for breakfast, somehow ended up in the Turkish delight shop and being offered tea. The Turks sure are friendly.
We headed back to our hotel long after nightfall, enjoying the wonderful atmosphere of this town we have both immediately fallen in love with.
A much needed couple of rest hours and we were traipsing back to the port with our heavy bags, sweating under the hot afternoon sun.
Finally on a boat to Turkey! Crazy that its only a short 30 minute ferry away. So cool to enter a country by boat, and see the patriotic flags swinging in the wind from afar. The land swelled as we made our way down the coastline, the many resorts covering the hills.
We passed passport control and went in search of a hotel, a routine we've become pretty accustomed to doing and which has so far worked pretty well! Sure enough, only 10 minutes or so walking the streets looking for somewhere and we were approached by a smiley man whose hotel offer we decided to take.
Just off the main street, we found a nice room with a terrace that looks out over the whole esplanade, castle and ocean. For 20 lira a night, or 10 euro, it will definitely do.
We set out exploring, walking around the lovely streets and soaking up the awesome coastal vibe that the town has. We grabbed an incredible meal at a local restaurant, siting on the third story where we could eat our meal while watching the sun set. The table next to ours was having a rowdy birthday celebration and we somehow ended up scoring a piece of the cake! It was divine. Chocolate cake with pistachios!
We declined the offer to join for continued birthday celebrations in a club and went for another walk where we found a little bazaar and loaded up on fruit for breakfast, somehow ended up in the Turkish delight shop and being offered tea. The Turks sure are friendly.
We headed back to our hotel long after nightfall, enjoying the wonderful atmosphere of this town we have both immediately fallen in love with.
Saturday, 13 April 2013
Greece. Still...
Currently sun lounging on Kos. Nestled under an umbrella with the sun burning down onto everything. Magazine handy, tunes blasting. Ocean clear and sand hot beneath the feet.
Ice creams and spinach pizza.
Delayed (read: missed) ferry to Turkey, not such a bad thing.
Ice creams and spinach pizza.
Delayed (read: missed) ferry to Turkey, not such a bad thing.
The Best Sunsets On Earth.
This morning began in a cave. Literally. Our fabulous abode is actually a cave and as happens when you plaster concrete, I woke up with peeled plaster in my hair and a busy night full of dreaming due to a hot night.
We left our villa to the most amazing view of the sun rising over the hill behind us, shining a wonderful morning glow on the unbelievable location we're staying in.
We made our way to the buffet breakfast and had easily the best breakfast we've had the whole trip. Bread, eggs, pasta, tomatoes, cucumber, feta, all types of cereal and muesli and the thickest, creamiest, most delicious Greek yogurt. As we dug in, Dianna, our resident mother milled about making sure everything was perfect and announcing to everyone that the coffee machine was still heating up for about another 10 minutes but that tea was available and definitely drinkable, as shown by her 'tea girls' who could drink litres.
After several cups, we hiked up the intense steps back through the village to the bus station and caught a bus to Fira, where we then caught a bus to Akropoli, taking almost another whole tour of the island before arriving there.
Akropoli was amazing, and fascinating to really be seeing something that was so old, but it felt a bit surreal as it was all entirely covered by a bio-thermal covering in order to protect it. It was crazy to learn that their town was destroyed by earthquakes several times and half way through rebuilding from a previous earthquake, the volcano happened! You'd definitely be a tad pi#*ed.
Incredible to see something BC, let alone an entire village. Amazing what they were constructing about 3500 years ago. And without Jesus..!
We had a look at the red sand beach but opted out of swimming in the cool breeze. Instead we hiked a little way to the nearest village and found a taverna, indulging in a range of Greek appetisers of fried eggplant, fried zucchini, peppers and tzatiki. So yum! They do love their oil.
We found a spot in the sun to wait for the bus, playing cards to pass the time, before another long journey back to Fira and from there onwards to Ia.
Caught one last stunning sunset from our wonderful accommodation that kindly invited us back to watch the sunset from, before saying a sad goodbye to beautiful Santorini and catching a bus to Fira.
Three hours to pass meant spending it at one of the only places staying open late, just so happened to be the delicious Waffle House! Can't complain there. Waffles with cinnamon and sugar and a pot of tea before our ferry.
Little did we realise just how long we would be spending waiting at the port! The ferry's are always tending to run late, unfortunately ours was a good hour overdue! Thankfully the weather was warm with no wind, but it didn't make the waiting much funner. Three hours at the port! That's a lot of Celebrity Name game.
Finally it came into view and took at least 20 minutes simply backing into the port. But we were able to get on and race everyone else to steal a good spot to sleep in. We found a nice spot of ground that allowed us to almost stretch out fully which constituted our next five hours.
Kos, we're on our way. Our last Greek island! Sad to say goodbye.
We left our villa to the most amazing view of the sun rising over the hill behind us, shining a wonderful morning glow on the unbelievable location we're staying in.
We made our way to the buffet breakfast and had easily the best breakfast we've had the whole trip. Bread, eggs, pasta, tomatoes, cucumber, feta, all types of cereal and muesli and the thickest, creamiest, most delicious Greek yogurt. As we dug in, Dianna, our resident mother milled about making sure everything was perfect and announcing to everyone that the coffee machine was still heating up for about another 10 minutes but that tea was available and definitely drinkable, as shown by her 'tea girls' who could drink litres.
After several cups, we hiked up the intense steps back through the village to the bus station and caught a bus to Fira, where we then caught a bus to Akropoli, taking almost another whole tour of the island before arriving there.
Akropoli was amazing, and fascinating to really be seeing something that was so old, but it felt a bit surreal as it was all entirely covered by a bio-thermal covering in order to protect it. It was crazy to learn that their town was destroyed by earthquakes several times and half way through rebuilding from a previous earthquake, the volcano happened! You'd definitely be a tad pi#*ed.
Incredible to see something BC, let alone an entire village. Amazing what they were constructing about 3500 years ago. And without Jesus..!
We had a look at the red sand beach but opted out of swimming in the cool breeze. Instead we hiked a little way to the nearest village and found a taverna, indulging in a range of Greek appetisers of fried eggplant, fried zucchini, peppers and tzatiki. So yum! They do love their oil.
We found a spot in the sun to wait for the bus, playing cards to pass the time, before another long journey back to Fira and from there onwards to Ia.
Caught one last stunning sunset from our wonderful accommodation that kindly invited us back to watch the sunset from, before saying a sad goodbye to beautiful Santorini and catching a bus to Fira.
Three hours to pass meant spending it at one of the only places staying open late, just so happened to be the delicious Waffle House! Can't complain there. Waffles with cinnamon and sugar and a pot of tea before our ferry.
Little did we realise just how long we would be spending waiting at the port! The ferry's are always tending to run late, unfortunately ours was a good hour overdue! Thankfully the weather was warm with no wind, but it didn't make the waiting much funner. Three hours at the port! That's a lot of Celebrity Name game.
Finally it came into view and took at least 20 minutes simply backing into the port. But we were able to get on and race everyone else to steal a good spot to sleep in. We found a nice spot of ground that allowed us to almost stretch out fully which constituted our next five hours.
Kos, we're on our way. Our last Greek island! Sad to say goodbye.
Thursday, 11 April 2013
Life is like a Souvlaki.
It is official. We are staying in the best place in Santorini. The. Best.
The Greeks are the nicest people ever. The views are insane. The food is delicious. I can't think of anywhere I'd rather be.
We started early and struggled (in my case. Steep hills, hot sun, heavy pack..) from our hotel to the bus stop. Saying goodbye to Fira, but not Santorini. Instead moving North to Oia, the northern most tip of Santorini.
The views on the bus were spectacular and we really got a full understanding of the island, having now been to the very top and the very bottom. It is easy to say that the north is my favourite part.
From stepping off the bus we were immediately cast into a delightful little village. Set up for tourists but with few mingling around, it was perfect. We got shown a nice little villa by the tourist office with amazing views but not of the sunset. We had out hearts set on a sunset view, no matter what it took, so we politely declined and set out for a room with a view of the setting sun. Easier said than done.
Greece is delightful with its winding steps, haphazardly placed hotels and houses, but this makes it near impossible to find accommodation. Coupled with the fact that bookings here are sporadically done, a lot of hotels not even having receptions, meant that our task of finding a place was tricky.
Our American friends from Ios had suggested a place to us that they said was incredible and had brilliant views of the sunset so we set off to the side of the cliff we thought the sun would set on and then started asking for this place, Oia Mare. We quickly learned how to actually pronounce it (Ia Marae, not Oia Marie..) and we were told "to the left and down a few steps". So we were close, but still got horribly confused and ended up trekking up and down huge sets of steep stairs with our heavy packs in a brutal sun. Turns out a few steps means a couple of kms and we eventually found it, with zero signs to help us.
This place was insane. It was easily the best place on the island and its pool and numerous villas took up half of the cliff face, all directly facing straight into the ocean. In a word, spectacular.
We walked in, asked for a room and were met by the nicest lady, who escorted us to a wonderful villa with one of the best rooms I've ever stayed in, probably THE best. As for the view? Unprecedented. It's unexplainable. Magic. Also double what we have been previously paying! But oh so worth it.
We chatted with the lady for awhile, listening to her wonderful, funny stories, including about when The Sisterhood of the Travelling Pants was filmed just down the cliff and all the cast and crew stayed at this place! Fit for a celebrity. Mamma Mia was filmed at a close by island and her eyes lit up talking about Pierce Brosnan and his limousine in her home town. Vladimir Putin's low flying helicopter rides didn't make her so happy.
We lay out in the sun and swam in the ocean, marvelling at the view. We dragged ourselves away to grab some lunch before walking 288 steps to the bottom in search of somewhere to swim and to see the jetty that Lena jumps off into the ocean in The Sisterhood film! We ended up walking all the way around the coastline with two ladies we met, all in search of some nice water to swim in. We walked past a Keep Out sign and through some pretty dodgy rock fall territory, at one stage the path had completely disappeared and we did a bit of clambering to get past. All while keeping an eye cast upwards for falling rocks! Unfortunately, in vain, as we couldn't find where to swim!
A beautiful walk, so we headed back and got chatting to some men on the way at the bottom who were renovating their restaurants for the summer period.
After the obligatory 'where are you from?' 'Are you sisters?' questions, they started telling us about the area, when The Sisterhood was filming and where they're from before showing us all around the restaurants, as well as behind where they're building a brand new mini market and clothes store. One of the guys also told us about how he brings SUP's down in the summer and goes all around the bays on them. He told us about a neat spot he goes to around the bay into a cave which has a spectacular view.
We told him we would have loved to have done that and he apologised that he doesn't have them with him, instead offering us to meet him and one of the other taverna owners, Dimitri, tomorrow afternoon where they will take us around to show us the bay and cave. We said we'd love to but we have a ferry to catch, he then told us he would drop us off at the port afterwards! This sounds crazy, but he is a genuine guy with kind eyes and a lovely smile (so they all say, right?). He even offered us a drink of water or the use of his bathroom before our mighty trek back up the steps to the village. It looks like we've found our ride to the port tomorrow! Hopefully we make it back from the Akrotori in time..
We spent the rest of the stunning afternoon in and out of the pool, playing cards, drinking the free cups of green and vanilla tea, talking to all the wonderful, friendly guests and our favourite Greek lady, who always has something exciting and funny to share as she bustles about watering plants and waving to everyone.
We grabbed a takeaway dinner and took it back to our incredible villa where we waited for the sun to set. Lined up behind us on the high walls were like minded tourists ready to capture the setting sun, but our location was definitely the best! Simply breathtaking. Watching the sun be swallowed by the ocean, illuminating the clouds with a soft, fiery tinge of red is a must. Something postcards can't recreate and photos can't capture.
Ending the night enjoying the beautiful accommodation we have, looking forward to a buffet breakfast tomorrow and our last day on this incredible island before our almost 1am ferry out and onwards to Kos, arriving before the sunrise.
I don't want to leave Greece. I have only the best of words to say about this place and most especially, it's people. Kindness exists in its truest form here.
I have no qualms in saying I'll be back. It's inevitable.
The Greeks are the nicest people ever. The views are insane. The food is delicious. I can't think of anywhere I'd rather be.
We started early and struggled (in my case. Steep hills, hot sun, heavy pack..) from our hotel to the bus stop. Saying goodbye to Fira, but not Santorini. Instead moving North to Oia, the northern most tip of Santorini.
The views on the bus were spectacular and we really got a full understanding of the island, having now been to the very top and the very bottom. It is easy to say that the north is my favourite part.
From stepping off the bus we were immediately cast into a delightful little village. Set up for tourists but with few mingling around, it was perfect. We got shown a nice little villa by the tourist office with amazing views but not of the sunset. We had out hearts set on a sunset view, no matter what it took, so we politely declined and set out for a room with a view of the setting sun. Easier said than done.
Greece is delightful with its winding steps, haphazardly placed hotels and houses, but this makes it near impossible to find accommodation. Coupled with the fact that bookings here are sporadically done, a lot of hotels not even having receptions, meant that our task of finding a place was tricky.
Our American friends from Ios had suggested a place to us that they said was incredible and had brilliant views of the sunset so we set off to the side of the cliff we thought the sun would set on and then started asking for this place, Oia Mare. We quickly learned how to actually pronounce it (Ia Marae, not Oia Marie..) and we were told "to the left and down a few steps". So we were close, but still got horribly confused and ended up trekking up and down huge sets of steep stairs with our heavy packs in a brutal sun. Turns out a few steps means a couple of kms and we eventually found it, with zero signs to help us.
This place was insane. It was easily the best place on the island and its pool and numerous villas took up half of the cliff face, all directly facing straight into the ocean. In a word, spectacular.
We walked in, asked for a room and were met by the nicest lady, who escorted us to a wonderful villa with one of the best rooms I've ever stayed in, probably THE best. As for the view? Unprecedented. It's unexplainable. Magic. Also double what we have been previously paying! But oh so worth it.
We chatted with the lady for awhile, listening to her wonderful, funny stories, including about when The Sisterhood of the Travelling Pants was filmed just down the cliff and all the cast and crew stayed at this place! Fit for a celebrity. Mamma Mia was filmed at a close by island and her eyes lit up talking about Pierce Brosnan and his limousine in her home town. Vladimir Putin's low flying helicopter rides didn't make her so happy.
We lay out in the sun and swam in the ocean, marvelling at the view. We dragged ourselves away to grab some lunch before walking 288 steps to the bottom in search of somewhere to swim and to see the jetty that Lena jumps off into the ocean in The Sisterhood film! We ended up walking all the way around the coastline with two ladies we met, all in search of some nice water to swim in. We walked past a Keep Out sign and through some pretty dodgy rock fall territory, at one stage the path had completely disappeared and we did a bit of clambering to get past. All while keeping an eye cast upwards for falling rocks! Unfortunately, in vain, as we couldn't find where to swim!
A beautiful walk, so we headed back and got chatting to some men on the way at the bottom who were renovating their restaurants for the summer period.
After the obligatory 'where are you from?' 'Are you sisters?' questions, they started telling us about the area, when The Sisterhood was filming and where they're from before showing us all around the restaurants, as well as behind where they're building a brand new mini market and clothes store. One of the guys also told us about how he brings SUP's down in the summer and goes all around the bays on them. He told us about a neat spot he goes to around the bay into a cave which has a spectacular view.
We told him we would have loved to have done that and he apologised that he doesn't have them with him, instead offering us to meet him and one of the other taverna owners, Dimitri, tomorrow afternoon where they will take us around to show us the bay and cave. We said we'd love to but we have a ferry to catch, he then told us he would drop us off at the port afterwards! This sounds crazy, but he is a genuine guy with kind eyes and a lovely smile (so they all say, right?). He even offered us a drink of water or the use of his bathroom before our mighty trek back up the steps to the village. It looks like we've found our ride to the port tomorrow! Hopefully we make it back from the Akrotori in time..
We spent the rest of the stunning afternoon in and out of the pool, playing cards, drinking the free cups of green and vanilla tea, talking to all the wonderful, friendly guests and our favourite Greek lady, who always has something exciting and funny to share as she bustles about watering plants and waving to everyone.
We grabbed a takeaway dinner and took it back to our incredible villa where we waited for the sun to set. Lined up behind us on the high walls were like minded tourists ready to capture the setting sun, but our location was definitely the best! Simply breathtaking. Watching the sun be swallowed by the ocean, illuminating the clouds with a soft, fiery tinge of red is a must. Something postcards can't recreate and photos can't capture.
Ending the night enjoying the beautiful accommodation we have, looking forward to a buffet breakfast tomorrow and our last day on this incredible island before our almost 1am ferry out and onwards to Kos, arriving before the sunrise.
I don't want to leave Greece. I have only the best of words to say about this place and most especially, it's people. Kindness exists in its truest form here.
I have no qualms in saying I'll be back. It's inevitable.
Wednesday, 10 April 2013
Tuesday, 9 April 2013
Santorini by water.
Another beautiful day today, still in Santorini!
Woke early and headed down the 588 steps from the town to the old port to catch our boat for our day excursion! It was a boat designed to look old, varnished to perfection!
The sun was shining and it was a stunning day as we headed out to our first stop, the volcano! We docked at the edge and walked to the top and it was amazing. The first time I've ever stood on an active volcano (I think!) and it still had the toxic fumes spewing out from it, amazing to see and smell. The views from the top were incredible and we were told that Santorini is also a volcano! Years ago, Santorini, the volcano and Thierra were all one land from and the volcano ripped them apart.
We hopped back on the boat, got changes into our bikinis and ready for the hot springs. Once changed and ready to go at the front of the boat, our guide chose to then tell us that the water was 14 degrees and the hot springs only 18-20 degrees! Apparently spring is the coldest time of the year.
But there was no turning back, so those crazy enough to brave the temperatures lined up and jumped off the ship. Woah! Cold! Not as bad as I expected actually, but not wonderfully warm. It was about a 30 metre swim to the hot springs which definitely didn't feel much warmer. The rocks were all red/orange-y in colour and there was a lot of orange fungi floating in the water. A fellow American told us it was actually iron. Pretty cool! Guess I don't need to eat spinach for dinner.
We chilled in the water, literally, for as long as we could handle before jumping back on board and speeding off to Thierra, another island split off after the volcano. It is another place perched high on the top of a hill and the walk up takes about 30 minutes. Instead of making the trek up with only a small amount of time to check out the place, we stayed on the ocean front and walked up and down the beautiful coastline.
We had lunch at an awesome little restaurant that was ON the ocean. There was no barrier between the restaurant and the ocean so if you moved your chair a bit too far to the right you would end up eating fresh a lot of fresher than you had planned, from IN the ocean. It would also make for a very wet lunch.
The little places along the shore were mostly closed but we walked all along the rocks as far as you could go and it was just the cooler little place. We were also advised to go snorkelling here as there is a cliff about 10 metres from the shore that drops 400metres! Insane! It is as a result of the volcano and is one of the only places in the world where you can swim inside a volcano. Pretty cool, but a little chilly for us.
We departed after a bit of touring around and the boat took us past Oia, another part of Santorini that is further along the cliff and where we have decided to relocate to tomorrow night! It's quite amazing to see it from the ocean, looking up and admiring the houses on the cliff edge!
Back to Santorini and flat land, sort of, and with an intense walk up to Santorini ahead of us! A donkey rise up was definitely on my agenda but after looking into their sad, forlorn eyes I couldn't do it! Instead it was an agonising, sweaty walk up to the top.
We grabbed a delicious Arabian pita takeaway and were talked into tomato balls which are a speciality of Santorini, so delicious!! We were blessed with a spectacular sunset, the first since we've been here! The fog relented enough for us to see it, along with all the others lined up to watch.
Picture perfect way to end the day and our last night in Fira.
Woke early and headed down the 588 steps from the town to the old port to catch our boat for our day excursion! It was a boat designed to look old, varnished to perfection!
The sun was shining and it was a stunning day as we headed out to our first stop, the volcano! We docked at the edge and walked to the top and it was amazing. The first time I've ever stood on an active volcano (I think!) and it still had the toxic fumes spewing out from it, amazing to see and smell. The views from the top were incredible and we were told that Santorini is also a volcano! Years ago, Santorini, the volcano and Thierra were all one land from and the volcano ripped them apart.
We hopped back on the boat, got changes into our bikinis and ready for the hot springs. Once changed and ready to go at the front of the boat, our guide chose to then tell us that the water was 14 degrees and the hot springs only 18-20 degrees! Apparently spring is the coldest time of the year.
But there was no turning back, so those crazy enough to brave the temperatures lined up and jumped off the ship. Woah! Cold! Not as bad as I expected actually, but not wonderfully warm. It was about a 30 metre swim to the hot springs which definitely didn't feel much warmer. The rocks were all red/orange-y in colour and there was a lot of orange fungi floating in the water. A fellow American told us it was actually iron. Pretty cool! Guess I don't need to eat spinach for dinner.
We chilled in the water, literally, for as long as we could handle before jumping back on board and speeding off to Thierra, another island split off after the volcano. It is another place perched high on the top of a hill and the walk up takes about 30 minutes. Instead of making the trek up with only a small amount of time to check out the place, we stayed on the ocean front and walked up and down the beautiful coastline.
We had lunch at an awesome little restaurant that was ON the ocean. There was no barrier between the restaurant and the ocean so if you moved your chair a bit too far to the right you would end up eating fresh a lot of fresher than you had planned, from IN the ocean. It would also make for a very wet lunch.
The little places along the shore were mostly closed but we walked all along the rocks as far as you could go and it was just the cooler little place. We were also advised to go snorkelling here as there is a cliff about 10 metres from the shore that drops 400metres! Insane! It is as a result of the volcano and is one of the only places in the world where you can swim inside a volcano. Pretty cool, but a little chilly for us.
We departed after a bit of touring around and the boat took us past Oia, another part of Santorini that is further along the cliff and where we have decided to relocate to tomorrow night! It's quite amazing to see it from the ocean, looking up and admiring the houses on the cliff edge!
Back to Santorini and flat land, sort of, and with an intense walk up to Santorini ahead of us! A donkey rise up was definitely on my agenda but after looking into their sad, forlorn eyes I couldn't do it! Instead it was an agonising, sweaty walk up to the top.
We grabbed a delicious Arabian pita takeaway and were talked into tomato balls which are a speciality of Santorini, so delicious!! We were blessed with a spectacular sunset, the first since we've been here! The fog relented enough for us to see it, along with all the others lined up to watch.
Picture perfect way to end the day and our last night in Fira.
Monday, 8 April 2013
Stunning Santorini.
First full day in Santorini and first full day in any one location since Athens.
After hearing the roaring wind and lashing rain throughout the night, we weren't too hopeful for what the day would bring. So luckily we were prepared for the overcast sky and strong winds when we woke. Even the local roosters weren't crowing!
Nonetheless, we grabbed some bread and spreads and found a deserted restaurant on the edge of the cliff where we ate our breakfast, holding on tight to our food for the crazy wind. We headed to the bus stop and caught a bus to Akrotiri, ruins which are over 3000 years old. Half way there, loaded onto a bus and the rain lashing the windows, we were told that it is closed on Mondays.
We decided to return another day and sneakily stayed on the bus, instead disembarking at Perissa, a black sand beach practically at the end of the island. It felt as if we were at the end of the earth, high cliffs towering around us with the stormy ocean the only noise. It felt completely empty.
Walking around the tiny village, we were waved at by an Australian we had met at our hostel in Athens and a couple of his friends. They were having lunch at a nice Greek restaurant so we sat down and joined them, indulging in some tzatiki. Hilarious to find people in the tiny town, even more so to actually know them!
We stayed a while, joking with another fun Greek man, the owner of the restaurant who told us it had snowed in northern Greece! Going round the table telling each other what nationalities we were, the Greek owner came up out of nowhere and added in "and I am Greek! So six nationalities!" Cool guy, who made delicious food.
We caught the bus back into Fira, the main town where we are staying, admiring the incredible scenery that makes up the island, even catching a glimpse of a church perched in the most impossible location high, high up in the vertical cliffs! It looked unreachable and possibly the most impractical church in the world. I could see no explanation as to how to reach it. I also certainly wouldn't want to be there in the wind!
We headed to a local travel centre and booked tomorrows plans, the most we've booked in advance since we've been here! Next was home to escape the elements and finally relax after go-go-go'ing.
The wind finally died down and we went for another walk along the cliff edge, we just can't get enough! The scenery is beyond amazing. Unlike anything else I've ever seen. We had some dinner, stuffed tomato and peppers for me with some side potatoes which were probably the best of my life. Cooked in something to die for.
Back to the edge to catch the sunset but unfortunately it was too cloudy once again. Strolled around instead, admiring the volcano from above that we're off to visit tomorrow! Followed by some sailing to a couple of close islands, including a jump off the boat to swim in the hot springs. An obligatory donkey ride back up the giant hill to end.
Bring the sun, tomorrow!
After hearing the roaring wind and lashing rain throughout the night, we weren't too hopeful for what the day would bring. So luckily we were prepared for the overcast sky and strong winds when we woke. Even the local roosters weren't crowing!
Nonetheless, we grabbed some bread and spreads and found a deserted restaurant on the edge of the cliff where we ate our breakfast, holding on tight to our food for the crazy wind. We headed to the bus stop and caught a bus to Akrotiri, ruins which are over 3000 years old. Half way there, loaded onto a bus and the rain lashing the windows, we were told that it is closed on Mondays.
We decided to return another day and sneakily stayed on the bus, instead disembarking at Perissa, a black sand beach practically at the end of the island. It felt as if we were at the end of the earth, high cliffs towering around us with the stormy ocean the only noise. It felt completely empty.
Walking around the tiny village, we were waved at by an Australian we had met at our hostel in Athens and a couple of his friends. They were having lunch at a nice Greek restaurant so we sat down and joined them, indulging in some tzatiki. Hilarious to find people in the tiny town, even more so to actually know them!
We stayed a while, joking with another fun Greek man, the owner of the restaurant who told us it had snowed in northern Greece! Going round the table telling each other what nationalities we were, the Greek owner came up out of nowhere and added in "and I am Greek! So six nationalities!" Cool guy, who made delicious food.
We caught the bus back into Fira, the main town where we are staying, admiring the incredible scenery that makes up the island, even catching a glimpse of a church perched in the most impossible location high, high up in the vertical cliffs! It looked unreachable and possibly the most impractical church in the world. I could see no explanation as to how to reach it. I also certainly wouldn't want to be there in the wind!
We headed to a local travel centre and booked tomorrows plans, the most we've booked in advance since we've been here! Next was home to escape the elements and finally relax after go-go-go'ing.
The wind finally died down and we went for another walk along the cliff edge, we just can't get enough! The scenery is beyond amazing. Unlike anything else I've ever seen. We had some dinner, stuffed tomato and peppers for me with some side potatoes which were probably the best of my life. Cooked in something to die for.
Back to the edge to catch the sunset but unfortunately it was too cloudy once again. Strolled around instead, admiring the volcano from above that we're off to visit tomorrow! Followed by some sailing to a couple of close islands, including a jump off the boat to swim in the hot springs. An obligatory donkey ride back up the giant hill to end.
Bring the sun, tomorrow!
Living Greek.
This morning we rose late. Like, late. We had somehow managed to close the shutters the night before and our room was practically a cave. It was breathtaking to open the shutters in the morning and see the absolute most amazing view. Something seen in magazines, books and the Internet and now my morning view.
After finally rising, we went along to the hotel reception and were met by Kiriagos, who was now cooking us breakfast. We ate quickly, amping to get back on our ATV!
We sped down to the port to buy our ferry tickets for that afternoon before going sick through town and on to the popular beach, Mylopotas. It was completely empty. Deserted. After only seeing images of it bustling with half naked bodies in the heart of summer, the sun glowing down, it was strange to see no one on it and the sky masked with cloud. Regardless, it's a beautiful beach and the bike down to it afforded breathtaking imagery. Nothing like riding a bike with the wind blowing through your hair, the white concrete of Greece scattered throughout the lush, green mountains.
We then rode to an amazing amphitheatre of Odysseus which overlooked the entire bay of the Mylopotas beach, the coastline stretching out for miles, the ocean blending into the sky.
We were heading back when we met Kiriamos, now a taxi driver, taking our American friends down to the ferry. A ferry that we were also catching. Oops. We still had to return the quad so we told them to go on ahead and we'd meet at the quad shop. We quickly grabbed our packs for our room and all loaded on to the quad. It would have made for a hilarious image, me driving at the front with Millie on the back, loaded up with two huge packs and having no idea where we were going unable to see anything.
We made it to the quad shop unharmed, miraculously. But arrive to find no Kiriamos and no van. We decided to take the steps down to the port, which was hard going and hot work, only to find that the ferry was going to be quite late so we could have taken our time! A beautiful walk down, nonetheless.
We grabbed a Greek salad, again (probably my 20th tomato since arriving here) and ate it in the shade while waiting. The ferry finally arrived and the wind picked up to a gale. It made for the longer hour ferry ride I've ever been on. Land was welcomed.
Arriving into Santorini is incredible. Surrounded almost 180 degrees by high, imposing cliffs, it is a stunning natural arena. We quickly found someone offering suitable accommodation, and after bartering the price down we were being shuttled into a car with fellow tourists and speeding, quite literally, up the cliffs along with every other car and bus ferrying tourists up the mountain. The Greek spirit is amazing and we stopped and picked up or dropped off various things along the journey, making for an interesting experience.
We settled into to our lovely hotel, and went walking through the beautiful streets of Santorini, an upmarket paradise. The wind is insane and unfortunately it's cloudy so the sunset couldn't be seen! The cliff edge is still an incredible view, and just as amazing and the pictures make it seem. Something to see with your own eyes.
Dinner of stuffed tomato and tzatiki, with bread still hot from the oven.
I have encountered nothing but the kindest, most generous, welcoming and friendly Greeks, who seem genuinely happy to see you in their country. They are always willing to help and do what they can. Whether this is related to their current economical situation or not, it's made the travelling nothing but wonderful and I can't wait to tell everyone to visit these beautiful islands.
Drifting into sleep-land utterly content.
After finally rising, we went along to the hotel reception and were met by Kiriagos, who was now cooking us breakfast. We ate quickly, amping to get back on our ATV!
We sped down to the port to buy our ferry tickets for that afternoon before going sick through town and on to the popular beach, Mylopotas. It was completely empty. Deserted. After only seeing images of it bustling with half naked bodies in the heart of summer, the sun glowing down, it was strange to see no one on it and the sky masked with cloud. Regardless, it's a beautiful beach and the bike down to it afforded breathtaking imagery. Nothing like riding a bike with the wind blowing through your hair, the white concrete of Greece scattered throughout the lush, green mountains.
We then rode to an amazing amphitheatre of Odysseus which overlooked the entire bay of the Mylopotas beach, the coastline stretching out for miles, the ocean blending into the sky.
We were heading back when we met Kiriamos, now a taxi driver, taking our American friends down to the ferry. A ferry that we were also catching. Oops. We still had to return the quad so we told them to go on ahead and we'd meet at the quad shop. We quickly grabbed our packs for our room and all loaded on to the quad. It would have made for a hilarious image, me driving at the front with Millie on the back, loaded up with two huge packs and having no idea where we were going unable to see anything.
We made it to the quad shop unharmed, miraculously. But arrive to find no Kiriamos and no van. We decided to take the steps down to the port, which was hard going and hot work, only to find that the ferry was going to be quite late so we could have taken our time! A beautiful walk down, nonetheless.
We grabbed a Greek salad, again (probably my 20th tomato since arriving here) and ate it in the shade while waiting. The ferry finally arrived and the wind picked up to a gale. It made for the longer hour ferry ride I've ever been on. Land was welcomed.
Arriving into Santorini is incredible. Surrounded almost 180 degrees by high, imposing cliffs, it is a stunning natural arena. We quickly found someone offering suitable accommodation, and after bartering the price down we were being shuttled into a car with fellow tourists and speeding, quite literally, up the cliffs along with every other car and bus ferrying tourists up the mountain. The Greek spirit is amazing and we stopped and picked up or dropped off various things along the journey, making for an interesting experience.
We settled into to our lovely hotel, and went walking through the beautiful streets of Santorini, an upmarket paradise. The wind is insane and unfortunately it's cloudy so the sunset couldn't be seen! The cliff edge is still an incredible view, and just as amazing and the pictures make it seem. Something to see with your own eyes.
Dinner of stuffed tomato and tzatiki, with bread still hot from the oven.
I have encountered nothing but the kindest, most generous, welcoming and friendly Greeks, who seem genuinely happy to see you in their country. They are always willing to help and do what they can. Whether this is related to their current economical situation or not, it's made the travelling nothing but wonderful and I can't wait to tell everyone to visit these beautiful islands.
Drifting into sleep-land utterly content.
Saturday, 6 April 2013
Inos Charm.
Have made it to the beautiful island of Inos and discovered my favourite Greek so far. The owner of our hotel, the owner and chef of a local restaurant, taxi driver, tourist guide and general handyman: Kiriagos.
Dinner at his restaurant "The Mills" consisted of absolute deliciousness and authentic Greek meals, all whizzed up to perfection and all eaten. I do feel sick. Vegetarian moussaka and tzatiki with fresh bread toasted in olive oil.
Enjoyed with the company of fellow American backpackers and their giant plate of chicken and lamb. Ended with an unknown shot, compliments of the chef: rika, honey, cinnamon and other unknown substances.
A beautiful almost end of the day after quad biking all afternoon! Apparently we don't lie convincingly as our attempts to rent scooters were met in vain. Instead we passed the quad bike test and away we went! 18 euros for 24 hour hire seems almost criminal. not complaining! First stop was about 40 minutes away at almost the northern most tip of the island, Homer's tomb! A seriously long and windy journey through the depths of the mountains, high above the village. No one else on the roads, it felt like we were the only people on the island! An incredible experience.
Traipsing around Homers tomb all by ourselves, seeing miles in every direction to the sea, mountains, with no sign of civilisation.
We headed back into town, and after our delicious dinner were escorted to one of the infamous bars on Ios, a well known party island. Not the high season so the bars and streets weren't teeming with people, thankfully. We started with the bar almost to ourselves but it soon began to fill up and the rest of the night is...well, a mystery. To here, anyway.
We hoped to meet up with some of the fellow hotel guests, members of the Milos football team playing Santorini, on Ios. We were graciously invited to attend their game the next morning after we all rode into town together, crammed into Kiriagos' old white van and reading between the lines of their stunted English. A five-way translation between various members of the team to decipher our sentences.
I'm not sure what time the day/night ended but I know it ended in a pool. An empty pool.
I could spend a very long time here.
Dinner at his restaurant "The Mills" consisted of absolute deliciousness and authentic Greek meals, all whizzed up to perfection and all eaten. I do feel sick. Vegetarian moussaka and tzatiki with fresh bread toasted in olive oil.
Enjoyed with the company of fellow American backpackers and their giant plate of chicken and lamb. Ended with an unknown shot, compliments of the chef: rika, honey, cinnamon and other unknown substances.
A beautiful almost end of the day after quad biking all afternoon! Apparently we don't lie convincingly as our attempts to rent scooters were met in vain. Instead we passed the quad bike test and away we went! 18 euros for 24 hour hire seems almost criminal. not complaining! First stop was about 40 minutes away at almost the northern most tip of the island, Homer's tomb! A seriously long and windy journey through the depths of the mountains, high above the village. No one else on the roads, it felt like we were the only people on the island! An incredible experience.
Traipsing around Homers tomb all by ourselves, seeing miles in every direction to the sea, mountains, with no sign of civilisation.
We headed back into town, and after our delicious dinner were escorted to one of the infamous bars on Ios, a well known party island. Not the high season so the bars and streets weren't teeming with people, thankfully. We started with the bar almost to ourselves but it soon began to fill up and the rest of the night is...well, a mystery. To here, anyway.
We hoped to meet up with some of the fellow hotel guests, members of the Milos football team playing Santorini, on Ios. We were graciously invited to attend their game the next morning after we all rode into town together, crammed into Kiriagos' old white van and reading between the lines of their stunted English. A five-way translation between various members of the team to decipher our sentences.
I'm not sure what time the day/night ended but I know it ended in a pool. An empty pool.
I could spend a very long time here.
Inos.
Window view!
No kidding.
This island is incredible. Gearing up to rent a scooter, mastering the act of pretending we've ridden one.
No kidding.
This island is incredible. Gearing up to rent a scooter, mastering the act of pretending we've ridden one.
Friday, 5 April 2013
Naxos.
Awoke to a brutal alarm at the crack of dawn this morning, hopped on the metro and rode it all the way out to Pireaus, the port. Arriving while it was still pitch black out, we jumped aboard, had a catch up power nap and ran to the back of the boat. Moving out of Athens, the sun was rising on the hilltops in the distance, illuminating the city and casting a fiery glow across dozens of haphazard rooftops.
We travelled past islands, hanging off the side railings to get an incredible view, Paros flew past and we were disembarking (or disembarkation, the Greeks like to say. Learnt a new word.)
We were haggled for accommodation the moment we set our feet on the ground in Naxos and we went with our first haggler, a middle aged Greek lady with a friendly demeanour and a interesting choice of footwear. We managed to barter down the price a bit, and are now staying in a beautiful location, near the centre and the beach, with our own room, kitchen and bathroom for 10 euro each. Benefits of off-peak season.
I can't help feeling a little guilty for not helping to bolster up their economy.
We climbed a hill to eat a delicious lunch in front of another amazing view. If only I could show all those miserable Londoners, trudging through the work day under a bleak sky, where I was. We walked along the beach, dipping our toes into surprisingly cold waters.
We headed to 'town' after getting wonderfully lost amidst the enchanting alleyways, all encased by the iconic white buildings, and failing spectacularly at finding the castle. Instead being followed by the large number of cats that roam the island as if its their own. All the scooter hire places were closed (it was 3pm!) so we followed our feet to the Temple of Apollo at the head of another hill, casting a backwards glance to the array of white topped homes lined out behind us and the seemingly endless ocean ahead of us.
The wind picked up to give a much needed cool burst to our sunburnt limbs. Strolls through the centre involve strange Greek shouting and restaurant owners calling us in, competing against everyone else selling the same thing, lacking the abundance of tourists a couple of months will soon bring.
Off for some dinner, the sun still high in the sky and the streets quiet and quaint.
Everywhere is beautiful.
We travelled past islands, hanging off the side railings to get an incredible view, Paros flew past and we were disembarking (or disembarkation, the Greeks like to say. Learnt a new word.)
We were haggled for accommodation the moment we set our feet on the ground in Naxos and we went with our first haggler, a middle aged Greek lady with a friendly demeanour and a interesting choice of footwear. We managed to barter down the price a bit, and are now staying in a beautiful location, near the centre and the beach, with our own room, kitchen and bathroom for 10 euro each. Benefits of off-peak season.
I can't help feeling a little guilty for not helping to bolster up their economy.
We climbed a hill to eat a delicious lunch in front of another amazing view. If only I could show all those miserable Londoners, trudging through the work day under a bleak sky, where I was. We walked along the beach, dipping our toes into surprisingly cold waters.
We headed to 'town' after getting wonderfully lost amidst the enchanting alleyways, all encased by the iconic white buildings, and failing spectacularly at finding the castle. Instead being followed by the large number of cats that roam the island as if its their own. All the scooter hire places were closed (it was 3pm!) so we followed our feet to the Temple of Apollo at the head of another hill, casting a backwards glance to the array of white topped homes lined out behind us and the seemingly endless ocean ahead of us.
The wind picked up to give a much needed cool burst to our sunburnt limbs. Strolls through the centre involve strange Greek shouting and restaurant owners calling us in, competing against everyone else selling the same thing, lacking the abundance of tourists a couple of months will soon bring.
Off for some dinner, the sun still high in the sky and the streets quiet and quaint.
Everywhere is beautiful.
Thursday, 4 April 2013
The Home of Zeus!
Stunning day in Athens touring.
Walked a hill to reach a church and a panoramic view of the city. Didn't realise that it's HUGE. Wide and expansive in every direction. Had lunch at one of the best locations I ever have - a pre packaged pita pocket while looking right over the earth of Athens to the sea beyond, the ferries roaming about visible to my contact lensed eye.
Visited an Olympic stadium from 1896 and the marble stadium. Walked through gardens, heat and a lot of weird looks for wearing shorts when it's only 23 degrees.
Trekked up to the Acropolis and roamed the ancient structures that are too old to fathom. History personified.
Headed out at night for a stroll and some delicious yogurt, in my opinion this is when Athens is at it's most beautiful!
Ferry at 7.30am tomorrow morning, off to Naxos! Ready to beach, sun, and hire scooters!!
Still don't understand a word of Greek: spoken or written.
Off to bed. Dead tired. And sunburnt, yay! Means I've seen some Vitamin D!
Walked a hill to reach a church and a panoramic view of the city. Didn't realise that it's HUGE. Wide and expansive in every direction. Had lunch at one of the best locations I ever have - a pre packaged pita pocket while looking right over the earth of Athens to the sea beyond, the ferries roaming about visible to my contact lensed eye.
Visited an Olympic stadium from 1896 and the marble stadium. Walked through gardens, heat and a lot of weird looks for wearing shorts when it's only 23 degrees.
Trekked up to the Acropolis and roamed the ancient structures that are too old to fathom. History personified.
Headed out at night for a stroll and some delicious yogurt, in my opinion this is when Athens is at it's most beautiful!
Ferry at 7.30am tomorrow morning, off to Naxos! Ready to beach, sun, and hire scooters!!
Still don't understand a word of Greek: spoken or written.
Off to bed. Dead tired. And sunburnt, yay! Means I've seen some Vitamin D!
Destination: Sun.
I woke before the sun.
I left the apartment and pounded the pavement in pitch black darkness, my body shaking in its ill-covered layers, headed to catch the very first tube of the day to Heathrow.
About an hour later, I arrived, we successfully checked in and dropped off our bags, the true value of British Airways appreciated after endless RyanAir travelling. Never ending sagas of bag sizes, numbers, seating and the constant sales pitches the interrupt the in-flight prayers that your flight will actually make it to the next destination.
We meandered about giant Heathrow and watched the sun rising over the waking city as our plane took of thousands of feet into the cloudy air.
Luxuriously, we were served an English breakfast (my first since arriving here!) and we tucked into bacon, eggs, sausage, yogurt, fruit and tea to begin the 3 and a bit hour flight.
The sparkling ocean and lush mountainous ranges swelled below us and the plane started to lower (and at once stage dive, quite drastically) to the inviting new country below. Athens, we have arrived!
The language, people and heat, hit immediately. We hopped on our train and headed into Athens itself, blessed with some spectacular views along the way.
We scouted out our accommodation, a lovely hostel under the Acropolis and changed into some cooler clothes, the sun was shining! We headed out to walk the streets, get our bearings a little bit and see the sights! The first thing we saw, unmissably, was the Acropolis. Perched high atop the central hill, it was the very obvious centre of the historic town.
We decided to walk around the base, gathering a feeling for the place while admiring from below. We ended up walking too far and ended up in perhaps, Athens' ghetto. It was interesting. Let's just say you couldn't pay me to enter the crumbling buildings and Greece's economic crisis remained forefront in my mind.
After managing to navigate ourselves back to a decidedly safer, both cultural and structurally, area of town, we grabbed a Greek yogurt and devoured it in the sun, gazing up at the grand ruins. It was here that I suddenly became abruptly aware I was in a significantly less well-off place in the world. My yogurt seemed significantly less appetising when a man with a GIANT gash in his foot walked past begging. Hat for, I'm still unsure. Maybe a quicker alternative to death? With half his flesh and bone showing through, I can't imagine begging for money would be too worthwhile.
We moved on from him and went down winding, unknown streets crammed with scooters, tourists, Greek children kicking soccer balls and shops spilling out with traditional and tourist goods: leather bags, shoes, slippers and Greek flags everywhere.
Strolling back to our hostel, we relaxed and then grabbed some dinner, choosing an incredible place a block from our accommodation. We both ordered veggie burgers, full of zucchini, eggplant, feta, pepper and tomato -yummy!!
Chilling and planning our next few days, climbing a giant hill tomorrow! Anything is possible when its sunny...
I left the apartment and pounded the pavement in pitch black darkness, my body shaking in its ill-covered layers, headed to catch the very first tube of the day to Heathrow.
About an hour later, I arrived, we successfully checked in and dropped off our bags, the true value of British Airways appreciated after endless RyanAir travelling. Never ending sagas of bag sizes, numbers, seating and the constant sales pitches the interrupt the in-flight prayers that your flight will actually make it to the next destination.
We meandered about giant Heathrow and watched the sun rising over the waking city as our plane took of thousands of feet into the cloudy air.
Luxuriously, we were served an English breakfast (my first since arriving here!) and we tucked into bacon, eggs, sausage, yogurt, fruit and tea to begin the 3 and a bit hour flight.
The sparkling ocean and lush mountainous ranges swelled below us and the plane started to lower (and at once stage dive, quite drastically) to the inviting new country below. Athens, we have arrived!
The language, people and heat, hit immediately. We hopped on our train and headed into Athens itself, blessed with some spectacular views along the way.
We scouted out our accommodation, a lovely hostel under the Acropolis and changed into some cooler clothes, the sun was shining! We headed out to walk the streets, get our bearings a little bit and see the sights! The first thing we saw, unmissably, was the Acropolis. Perched high atop the central hill, it was the very obvious centre of the historic town.
We decided to walk around the base, gathering a feeling for the place while admiring from below. We ended up walking too far and ended up in perhaps, Athens' ghetto. It was interesting. Let's just say you couldn't pay me to enter the crumbling buildings and Greece's economic crisis remained forefront in my mind.
After managing to navigate ourselves back to a decidedly safer, both cultural and structurally, area of town, we grabbed a Greek yogurt and devoured it in the sun, gazing up at the grand ruins. It was here that I suddenly became abruptly aware I was in a significantly less well-off place in the world. My yogurt seemed significantly less appetising when a man with a GIANT gash in his foot walked past begging. Hat for, I'm still unsure. Maybe a quicker alternative to death? With half his flesh and bone showing through, I can't imagine begging for money would be too worthwhile.
We moved on from him and went down winding, unknown streets crammed with scooters, tourists, Greek children kicking soccer balls and shops spilling out with traditional and tourist goods: leather bags, shoes, slippers and Greek flags everywhere.
Strolling back to our hostel, we relaxed and then grabbed some dinner, choosing an incredible place a block from our accommodation. We both ordered veggie burgers, full of zucchini, eggplant, feta, pepper and tomato -yummy!!
Chilling and planning our next few days, climbing a giant hill tomorrow! Anything is possible when its sunny...
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