On this beautiful Sunday we had made it 50 minutes outside of London to a small town called Watford; home to Leavesden studios, where Harry Potter was brought to life.
We arrived at Watford Junction having caught the Overground for the most unbearable 50 minutes of tested patience, passing the while with quizzing questions of Potter life. Scouring every slice of someone else’s imagination, pulling for a fact to rival the next. Arriving at the station we caught the double decker Potter bus, covered on every inch with the enveloping world fronted by Harry, Ron and Hermione; wands at the ready. The in-bus television informed us of Leavesden history as the English countryside rolled on past. The enormous studios were quickly in-sight and that infamously scrawled ‘Harry Potter’ logo dawned large atop the building; a calligraphy synonymous with delight child to adult alike. We bounded off the bus and collected our tickets; the awaiting world awaking the inner child; a land where age loses meaning and Potter holds true.
The doors to this magical kingdom were like Platform 9 and ¾, if ever there was one (which of course there is) and our entrance was equal to Harry’s first trip through. Our wide eyed stares of awe were instantaneous as we walked under the many giant faces of Potter, Granger, Weasley’s, Moody, Dumbledore and Snape. We entered the line amongst fidgety excitement; seeing the cupboard under the stairs, Dursley family portraits and Daniel Radcliffe’s first iconic foray into his 10 year stint as Harry, his first pair of those famous round framed lenses.
As we were led through into the beginning phase of our Potter adventure, we were brought into a large room, filled only with all eight Potter posters in every language, showing the incredible span across the world that these books had created. The ripple of excitement was a tangible energy in the room as we were greeted and given a small history before the doors opened once again and through we went into a fantastic cinema room, complete with amphitheatre seats and a giant screen.
We took our seats and the screen filled with those instantly recognizable faces smiling back. Daniel, Emma and Rupert themselves; larger than life. Beginning our adventure into their world, and what became their life for over a decade, we were treated to a dialogue from those at the centre of the magical world. Then the screen lifted up and they were swept away, replaced like magic by the grand and ominous doors to the Great Hall itself, in all its glory. A rise of voices and gasps galore, we scurried from our seats and into the beautiful hall; home to so much of Harry and The Boy Who Lived, a source of comfort and familiarity against his peculiar life.
Stepping into the hall was being whisked away from reality, as if we had all taken a dose of Floo Powder and been spun in that stomach churning journey to Hogwarts itself. The real stone floor beneath our feet had before been traversed by many magical people themselves time and time again. The long, large tables took up most of the space; images of Harry’s sorting came flooding in, the table of Gryffindor a symbol of aspiration for Harry, while that of Slytherin stood menacing and frightening, only one in the group admitting it was his true house of desire. The table for the teachers centred the room; Dumbledore’s ornate stand luxuriously grand, as if he was moments from making his opening speech for the start of the year. The obligatory glance up to see the magical roof; bewitched to match the sky outside was a mix of metal bars, hanging ropes and film equipment, haphazardly contradicting the magical allure of the hall; the reality of film came crashing back.
Moving on from the hall we were given commentaries by the directors, producers, writers, screenwriters, costume designers and makeup artists among more. The world of Harry Potter was widening before our eyes; the army of those behind the scenes beautifully unveiled. Authenticity was everywhere you looked, with each corner of the room packed high and wide with various Potter memorabilia and excited pointing, careful observation and awe was lacing every turn. Behind the scenes photos and secrets of the trade were our own source of magic, cleverly hidden from every eye in the eight blockbusters. The Gryffindor common room showed the stairs led to nowhere, the boys dormitory in fact next door; though the room was elaborate and real; posters on the wall, jackets draped over chairs and half-drunk cups of tea left on tables.
Every token from every journey was somewhere to be found, like a real life version of the Room of Requirement, every corner filled with something iconic from the Potter world; the philosophers stone, the Triwizard cup, Skele-gro, the Remebral; the visual wonder was endless and brought memories crashing back, as if our own. Every wand was laid out; the dark, sharp lines of Voldermort’s and the Death Eaters contrasted heavily with Harry’s, Hermione’s and the Weasley’s with soft edges and humble tones. The kitchen from the Burrow featured pots being self-stirred, a scarf knitting itself. The Potions classroom (secretly once featured as another teacher’s office) held every potion and vial imaginable; the dark, damp dungeon atmosphere reflective of the abuse from Snape which was all Harry knew in this classroom. Professor Umbridge’s horridly pink office, the Ministry of Magic’s defining statue, the holes for those arriving by Floo powder and the elaborate construction which housed the various ministers office’s was in full view.
There was the option to fly your own broomstick over London and the enchanted flying Ford Anglia from King’s Cross before the tour led outside and right into the giant three storey Knight bus, “all destinations; except underwater”. Butterbeer was offered as if we had walked out into a brisk, cold day at Hogsmeade itself; the deliciously sweet liquid easily sliding down.
Privet Drive is almost mistaken for a set of real houses in its remarkably lifelike form and size, only a short walk from Lily and James’ house itself; crumbling and old after years of neglect following Voldermort’s forced entry the night it all began.
The next section is a vibrant collection of the skills required by the make up artists, bringing to life the goblins, the giants, Hagrid himself, who also required a mechanical head; the 6ft10” English rugby player not big enough as himself. Then we are shown dragons, rats, cats and the array of animals featured before the plans behind the many buildings have their designs and sketches laid bare and breathtakingly, Hogwarts and its grounds are shown on a massive scale.
Taking up almost a whole room and with an expansive 360 walkway; the swooping long shots used the giant sculpture to accurately represent one of the pinnacles of the magical world.
The tour nears its end with a walk through Diagon Alley, the stunning real life creation a reason for absolute awe as the final Potter unveiling. As lifelike as possible, it is almost expected to run into Hagrid buying Harry his first owl; Harry and Draco fighting while collecting their new books, the Weasley’s setting up their new joke shop or the Death Eaters making their way across from Knockturn Alley. Broomsticks, wands, robes and books fill the shop windows; as if waiting for their next visitor; the illusion shattered by the boarded doors and blocked entry.
As the tour ends in the shop selling everything from Mrs Weasley style home made jumpers, Quidditch equipment, Bertie Botts Every Flavour Beans and Chocolate Frogs, not to mention truly authentic wizard robes to match your favourite character, be it Harry, Dumbledore or Snape; as the journey comes to an end. Much like the books and movies themselves; reality catches up eventually and the Muggle world beckons. But as the immortal words of J.K. Rowling gleam right and true as we near the end; “Hogwarts will always be there to welcome you home”.
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